It was quite a pretty drive from Mobile, Alabama to New Orleans, Louisiana.  I went through another bridge-tunnel crossing the Mobile Bay, but unlike the Chesapeake bridge-tunnel, this one was a bit rational in speed and width.

The long drive across the Lake Pontchartrain bridge into the city was really lovely on this bright sunny day.

I had been craving coffee and a New Orleans specialty, a beignet, ever since I left Mobile, so I drove immediately into the French Quarter of the city to find a café.  Although the streets seemed cramped, traffic moved steadily, and driving really wasn’t an issue.

Some of the other vehicles in town were a bit more primitive than mine, however.  Parking was not difficult to find, but very cramped.

I attempted to go to the famous Café Du Monde for my beignet and coffee, but as soon as I got there a firetruck pulled up outside and people were flooding out.  I never did find out what happened, except that it meant I had to find my beignet elsewhere!

Since I wasn’t in any hurry, I wandered down the waterfront and had a lovely view of Jackson Square and the St Louis Cathedral.

And I finally settled into a window seat at the appropriately named Café Beignet.  Unfortunately, it turns out that if you order two beignets, you get two ORDERS of beignets.  I had enough to feed a small family for several days.  I drank my latte and ate only two beignets, but had to leave the rest.

I walked around the French Quarter for a while, mainly checking out the shops — so much touristy junk!! I walked down Bourbon Street, but just wasn’t very impressed.  I suppose it’s more active in the evening, when the restaurants and bars are open, but it was mostly shut up when I was there.  And it smelled funny.

I’m guessing that they use these signs quite often to attract attention, but I found it amusing.  And coming from my recent night in the cemetery at Blakely Battlefield,  it was reassuring to know that they check for ghosts before selling a place.  The fact that the realtor was named Shelnutt also got me giggling.

I had prebooked a camp site in St Bernard State Park, but wasn’t really sure what I was going to get so close to a city like New Orleans, so I was pleasantly surprised as I drove down this road toward the park.  This seemed to be a pecan grove.

I was a little less enthusiastic later in the evening when I was cooking dinner and met one of my neighbors!  The park ranger told me that it was a rat snake, a constrictor, and nothing to worry about.  And then he left.  He left!!! It started coming toward my truck not long after, and a nice man with a stick chased it away for me.  He said not to worry, because they only eat small mammals.  Without thinking I replied, “I am a small mammal…”

Somehow it seemed that he might be questioning my mammalhood, and not my size.  Hm.  Crisis averted, I checked out the bathhouse, only to find this sign.  Killer wasps!! Well, in the end I never did see any wasps, and my friend the snake didn’t come back… it was the mosquitoes that gave me the most trouble.

The next day, I was back down at the waterfront, and watched the steam paddleboat return down the Mississippi River after taking passengers for a tour upstream.  There were also many tanker ships, cargo ship, and ferries moving on the water, though few small boats.

New Orleans is of course known for the wonderful food available there, especially Creole and Cajun.  I decided that I would take a cooking class to learn a bit more about it, and when I finally settle somewhere I’ll use my skills to make new friends and thank old ones!  I opted for a demonstration class as being more cost effective (ie. cheaper), but was not at all disappointed.

Our chef, Pat, gave us quite a history lesson to start about all the different cultural influences that went into making what we think of as New Orleans specialties.  French, Dutch, German, Italian, Spanish, and very importantly, the freed African slaves who brought with them the techniques and tastes from their home countries.  Pat told us what she was doing as she went along, and we could watch in the mirror overhead.

I thought she was adding far too much spice to the Corn and Crab Bisque, but I was sooooo wrong!  It was absolutely fantastic, and something I’m definitely going to have to try making.

Her Chicken Etouffee was also wonderful, but probably more what I was expecting.

And finally we ended with Pralines, a New Orleans specialty.  They’re actually like a soft fudge, and can be made with almonds or pecans.  In case I didn’t mention it… yes, we got to eat the results!!  I also picked up some spices and a cook book, so I’m ready to cook.  All I need is a kitchen… with a house around it.

I really spent all of my time in New Orleans in the French Quarter, and only drove through parts of the modern city as I was leaving.  Perhaps it’s a bit unfair, but I tend to find many modern cities to be basically the same, and felt that the French Quarter really captured the spirit of New Orleans that I wanted to experience.

On the way out, I drove through this wall across the road, and it was only when I turn the truck around to get a better look that I realized that it’s a flood wall, and the gates I had driven through can be closed in case of flood.  It was huge, as you can see from the size of the pickup truck driving through.  Just imagine, when Hurricane Katrina came through, these walls were not enough to hold the water back.

So… who wants to come to dinner???