Maybe I’m odd.  But some of the places I’ve enjoyed most on this trip are the ones I’ve come across accidentally, the ones that I had no expectations of, that weren’t even on my radar at the start.  That oddness seems to have made me find Mount Rushmore simply adequate, and to blow through Yellowstone in a day because there were too many people, but spend two days in Bozeman, Montana because I really liked the people.  Go figure.  Odd.

I stopped in Bozeman for two nights in a hotel because, let’s face it, I was getting a bit feral.  I had slept in my truck in truck stops, Walmart parking lots, or back roads for a couple of weeks, hadn’t showered in three days, and frankly just forgot to eat one day.  Although no one was looking at me funny and slowly backing away yet, I thought I’d better get myself in hand.  And it turns out that Bozeman was well worth a deeper look.

One place I really enjoyed was the Museum of the Rockies (MOR), which had the best collection of dinosaur bones I’ve ever seen, and that includes the Smithsonian!

Most of the bones seemed to be locally sourced, and by that I mean that they were found in Montana or neighboring regions, and the scientists at work there were mostly from the University of Montana.  There seemed to be a particular emphasis on studying changes as the animals grew from infancy, through adolescence, to maturity, as for example in these diplodocus leg bones.

There were specimens still under active study, such as this tall fellow, who’s body was in the lab while his head and neck were on display.

Although I’m aware that ideas about dinosaur looks are developing, this is the first time I’ve seen a display representing one with bright colors and feathers, and it certainly challenged my long-held perceptions of dinosaurs as big green lizards.

But the main attraction was this guy, the tyrannosaurus rex, and he was a beauty!  In all of the skeletons and bones that follow, the dark areas are actual excavated bone, while the lighter areas are modelling material that was used for completion and support.  You can clearly see that this was a very complete T. Rex, mostly original equipment.

In keeping with the theme of changes through maturity, this collection of T. Rex skulls ranged from a newborn to a full grown adult, and included the largest T. Rex skull in the world.  The little girl in the picture told me when I asked that she wouldn’t have been afraid of a live T. Rex, so I did my best to explain their size and speed to her, including a bit about the rending and the tearing of huge teeth and jaws, but that only got her giggling.  Kids.

Another display that kind of blew me away was the triceratops skulls.  They had about eight of them lined up, from infant to mature adult, showing the differences in skull development as different stages in the animal’s life.  For example, I learned that a juvenile trike has horns that curve backwards over its head, and they become more forward directed as it matures.  This is believed to be an indication that they were very social animals, since these cues would have indicated that a juvenile was not a threat.  Also, those big holes in the neck shield of the skull on the right below are caused by the shield becoming larger and thinning as it ages.  The shield would continue to weigh about the same, while appearing larger.  Well cool.  Also note that these skulls contain no modelling material, so were excavated complete.  Imagine something this size, covered in flesh and blood, walking the face of the Earth in Montana.  What can I say?  This whole collection left me kind of speechless.

Also, check this out!  You know those wonky looking dinosaurs, the pachycepholosaurus, with the domed heads?  As it turns out, they develop the domes as they get older (upper left), but look distinctly like horned dragons as juveniles (lower right)!  There be dragons!!

And look at the size of this mammoth skull!  It’s mammoth!

As you may have noticed, I got a bit excited about the dinosaur fossil collection. I wasn’t the only one, and as the morning went on the noise level of yelling toddlers rose and rose.  But hey, there were DINOSAURS!  So I get it, and only extensive training in how to pass as an adult was keeping me from yelling about it all myself.

The next hall of the museum was filled with Native American artifacts, including clothing and tools with some of the most beautiful beadwork I’ve ever seen.  There was a sign forbidding photography of this collection, however, so I was forced to actually just appreciate it, without thinking about the best camera angles…

A special collection that was currently at the MOR was artefacts from Pompeii.  There were explanations of how the destruction of the city came about, and how most of the people died from the toxic gasses released by the volcano before being covered in ash, which accounts for so many of them being in natural positions and undamaged.  There were statues and bits of painted plaster from the city..

But I think what effected me most, and brought home the humanity of these people, were the everyday objects, like these glass and pottery containers.

And also the jewellery found on some of the bodies.

Another interesting part of the museum was the Living History Farm, a homestead originally claimed and operated by the Tinsley family under Abraham Lincoln’s Homestead Act of 1862.  The house and gardens are beautifully kept, and once again probably belie the difficulty of homesteading in such a place.

Actors in costume were there to answer questions and provide demonstrations.  I got there just in time for the laundry and cooking.  Figures.

But aside from my visit to the awesome MOR, I mostly rested, got myself cleaned up, drank coffee, and enjoyed the atmosphere of Bozeman.  The downtown on a Friday night was wonderful, with people out and enjoying the many great cafes and restaurants.  I found the Midtown Tavern near where I was staying, and liked the food and staff there so much that I went back both nights!  I can highly recommend it if you’re ever in Bozeman!

Maybe it was because I was sampling the local beers, but I’m left with this impression of Bozeman as being filled with handsome men and pretty women, everyone intelligent and friendly, interesting work going on, a great university, mountains, lovely weather, a vibrant and fun city center, and good beer (especially the Bozeman Brewing Company’s Plum Street porter).  What’s not to love?  I’m rather reluctant to move on, and think I might be back in time for ski season… but still, I need to see what’s around the next corner…