Leaving the Little Bighorn Battlefield, I worked my way back south westerly, and discovered Bighorn Canyon and the Yellowtail Dam.  The drive there was through more of the grasslands of eastern Montana, and a lot of farming there seems to be centered around making hay.

Bighorn Canyon was quite pretty, and considering that I had never even heard of the dam, it turned out to be really significant.

Along with eleven other dams, it forms part of the Pick-Sloan Missouri Basin Power System, with a combined power output of 2,643,000 KW.  Although not one of the largest, the numbers on the Yellowtail Dam alone are still impressive, and as with many dams in the US, it’s purpose is more than just power production.

For security reasons I wasn’t allowed to drive on or past the dam, but from the pictures and video I saw, there seemed to be a lot more to the canyon.  Looking at maps, I discovered that the canyon was also accessible from the southwest end, and what’s more, the Pryor Mountain Wild Mustang Range was located there!  So the next day I drove around to the town of Lovell, WY, and entered the range there.

At the visit center I learned about the colors and the behavior of the wild mustangs, the fact that they are one of the few herds of almost purely Spanish descent, and got a rough idea of where the herds were currently.  The main herd of about 130 horses was hanging out at the top of Pryor Mountain — I was advised that it was a 2.5 hour trip each way over very rough mountain roads, so they’re careful about who goes up, but after looking at my vehicle and asking me a few questions I was told that I could go ahead.  However, I was also told that the horses had been very hard to find there in recent weeks, and I might not see them at all, while I would definitely see smaller groups down on the lower plains.  Still I would have given it a try, but I asked if I could spend the night on the mountain, and they didn’t want me to do that, for the sake of the horses, and I could understand that.  So I opted for a day drive along the valley, and the first thing I saw was this little grouping of wild mustangs!  Although I saw several other small groups during the day, this is the closest I got to them, and you’re asked not to approach them, for their own protection.  To me, such wildness is worth preserving, so I was happy to give up a photo op in order to leave them in peace.

But this overlook of the Bighorn Canyon kind of made up for any other lost photo ops!  I just kept thinking… how did I not even know that this place existed in my own country?  But I’ve felt that way about so many places that I’ve been to so far!

While I was there these guys ran by me, fearless along the edge of the cliff.

I also visited the historic Ewing-Snell Ranch, just inside the Montana border.  I loved the look of this old barn, and in spite of the hardships they must have endured, I can just imagine the peace of waking up in this place every morning.

Of course, the real reason that the ranch was in this particular location was the presence of a stream that ran through the property.  Water is life.  Since I had been doing some hiking, I decided to cool my feet — this is some of the most painfully cold water ever, and must come directly from a spring!!

I also found evidence of some residents from a much earlier time.  Reading the interpretive signs, I learned that about 1,000 years ago tipis were set up at this Two Eagles site, and rocks used around the bottom to hold down the edge of the leather.  When these people moved on again, they simply rolled the rocks off and left them.  There were many rings here, including some double rings, indicating the use of a tipi liner, so probably an indication of a winter camp.  Evidence indicated that bison were hunted here by running them off a nearby cliff.

I spent some more time watching the wild horses from a distance, and was happy to see a couple of 6 month foals among them, still following their mothers closely, but occasionally having a bit of play as well.  I can only assume that that’s a sign that the herd is doing well, and I was certainly impressed with how strong and well fed they all appeared, in what looked to me like a desolate landscape.

Among the other creatures there, I spotted a wild FJ at the base of the mountain.  I approached it very slowing and cautiously, and it let me pet it, and then mount up.  It’s still a bit untamed, but it has spirit, and I like that in a ride…